By CAROLE ORLIN SPECIAL TO THE D A I LY PRESSI f you are looking for an escape from Southern California that is rustic and luxurious, serene and private, and allows you to reach your destination by car within about five hours of Santa Monica, look no more. Along Highway 1, flanked by the majestic Santa Lucia Mountains and the rocky Pacific Coast is the Ventana Inn & Spa in Big Sur.
To break up the drive from Santa Monica, you may want to stop at some of the vineyards in central California for wine tasting, or have lunch at one of the restaurants in Cambria. Then continue on to Big Sur. Situated on 243 acres of land, 1,200 feet above the Pacific Ocean, the architects and planners truly understood the power of the setting. The pictures and descriptions of Ventana do not come close to the reality of its beauty and grandeur. Movie producer Lawrence A. Spector built the Ventana Inn in 1975 with his earnings from the movie “Easy Rider.” It has been host to a long list of celebrities who have stayed there, and it’s easy to see why. With 60 spacious guest rooms, suites and private houses, each comes with a private balcony or patio and panoramic views of either the ocean or the hills of the Big Sur coast. Most rooms and suites have fireplaces.
We started our Ventana stay with a glass of wine during the registration process, which was a nice touch, especially when we were told that this was a clothing optional inn. My visions of flabby nudists jogging by were quickly erased as the concierge explained that there are separate Japanese hot baths and pools for clothed or unclothed bathing. What did we choose to do? All I can say is, “What happens in Big Sur stays in Big Sur.”
We were shown to our room with a beautiful deck and hammock to further enjoy the view, but we were eager to go on the 2 1/2 hour hike and picnic lunch in the Big Sur Wilderness. A dozen of us signed up and had a wonderful hike through the mountains, redwoods, and waterfalls, led by the enthusiastic Steve Copeland of Big Sur Guides and Hiking. This guy obviously loves his job and loves Big Sur. He regaled us with some great stories about the area’s dramatic history. We ate our picnic lunches on a jetty very close to the shore and looked for whales, but had no luck that day. This hike is a must if you are as intrigued with the splendor of Big Sur as we were. They also have many other activities, including a meditation walk, mushroom hunting adventure, and a guided “create your own Big Sur masterpiece photo safari.”
For those of you considering romantic wedding settings or a renewal of wedding vows, Ventana has two lovely and dramatic settings that overlook the ocean. Paul O’Dowd, Ventana’s general manager, told us they had about 100 elopement wedding ceremonies there last year.
After our hike we were in need of a massage. The holistic Allegria Spa was lovely. They have many choices for body treatments, but I stuck to the tried and true deep tissue massage, and was not disappointed.
Before we knew it, dinnertime was upon us. I had heard so much about Ventana’s restaurant Cielo, and their executive chef Anthony Calamari, that I was sure it could not possibly live up to the hype. I couldn’t have been more wrong. The dinner was incredible: The food, the service, the presentation and the view were truly unforgettable. Cielo features menu items inspired by the coastal Mediterranean regions of France, Italy and North Africa. They are especially proud of their wines, with about 600 bottles to choose from, and they have received Wine Spectators Award of Excellence every year since 1992. This is wine country after all.
If you are fortunate enough to spend several days in Big Sur, and want a change of venue very close by to Ventana Inn, you can venture directly across the road and discover the Post Ranch Inn’s Sierra Mar Restaurant. If you are not a guest at the Post Ranch Inn, you are restricted to a one-hour time frame for your dinner reservation — from 5:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. The view from the restaurant, overlooking the Pacific Ocean directly below, is truly awe-inspiring. The four-course prix fixe menu changes daily with a la carte also available. Dinner was very enjoyable; the staff provided genuinely warm and unpretentious service.
It felt so good to be in this rugged, northern California environment. I hadn’t been north for a while and forgot how good it feels to be in a different climate, see different wildlife and flora, and soak up the coastline.
From Santa Monica I-405 N (towards Sacramento), merge onto US-101 N (towards Ventura). Take the CA-1 N exit towards Morro Bay/Hearst Castle. Turn right onto Toro St./CA-1. Turn right onto CA-1 /Walnut St. Right onto CA-1N/Santa Rosa St. Continue to follow CA-1 N. End at Ventana Inn at Big Sur. Distance is approximately 298 miles.
Ventana Inn & Spa (www.ventanainn.com; 800-628-6500) Big Sur Guides and Hiking (www.bigsurguides.com; 831-658-0199) Post Ranch Inn’s Sierra Mar Restaurant (www.postranchinn.com; 800-527-2200)
Originally published in the Santa Monica Daily Press print edition on May 27, 2006. Read the original PDF.