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City slickers can just chill

City slickers can just chill
Published:

By CAROLE ORLIN Special to the Daily Press

SAN JUAN ISLANDS Perhaps you have heard of the San Juan Islands. You may be aware that they are somewhere in the Pacific, off the coast of Washington, and a place to see one day.

I suggest you move them way up on your “places to go before I’m too old” list.

Although there are 172 named islands in the San Juans, there are only three open for tourism — Lopez, Orcas and San Juan Island. (There is also Shaw Island, boasting a population of approximately 300 people and 11 campsites!). Orcas is the largest at about 60 miles; but San Juan has the largest population (about 7,400).

We’re not talking the big island of Hawaii here... and therein lies the charm.

I chose to stay on Orcas because I assumed by its name that it was great for whale watching. Actually, it is named after a Viceroy of Mexico who sent out an exploratory expedition to the Pacific NW in 1791! But they do have whale watching. We went on a wonderful whale-watching trip with Deer Harbor Charters. We did not see orcas, but we did see minke whales and other sea creatures, which was exciting. The best time for sighting the 85 orcas that frequent the islands are from April through September. However, whale watching is only one of a myriad of things to do on these islands. They are also a camper’s, hiker’s, biker’s, boater’s, kayaker’s, naturalist’s or newlyweds’ dream!

We stayed at a charming and historic resort called Rosario Resort and Spa. This was originally the private estate of Robert Moran, a shipbuilder, friend of naturalist John Muir, and mayor of Seattle in the late 1880s. The history of Rosario alone is enough of a draw, but the setting is overwhelming. It overlooks the spectacular Cascade Bay, where the sunrises and sunsets are truly breathtaking. Our room was spacious and spotless. It showed signs of wear, but I believe that was part of its charm. A contemporary resort would be an eyesore on this quaint, history-rich island.

Speaking about history, if you get to Rosario you must meet Christopher Peacock. He is their director of marketing, resident musician, graphic artist and historian. He actually wrote a book about the history of Rosario. He plays the piano masterfully in the evenings. Chris came to Rosario 26 years ago for a vacation and never left. He is a font of information about the resort and

(Photo: BY CAROLE ORLIN Special to the Daily Press)
PADDLING PAIR: (Bottom) Kayakers and naturalists can delight in the scenic beauty of the Cascade Bay, where the sunsets border on the sublime. (Photo: Photo courtesy)

Originally published in the Santa Monica Daily Press print edition on September 29, 2007. Read the original PDF.

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