By THOMAS YOUNG & MAUREEN TOBIN Special to the Daily Press
Benavenuto, welcome to Mario’s in Santa Monica on the Third Street Promenade where a glorious experience awaits you at this charismatic, old-world spot. In 1963 Mario’s opened in Westwood and then on the Promenade about 12 years ago. Owner Anna Maria Angellini has been in the restaurant business more than 40 years and is the definitive restaurant owner/businesswoman, ready to cater to your every need.
Downstairs is a warm, Italian-neighborhood kind of place inside, with a terrific outside al fresco patio from which the patrons can view the throngs. But by far the most outstanding view of the Promenade is the tiny upstairs balcony. From this upstairs gallery, watch the plebeians below and let the world pass by.
We eyed this spot for years. When you call for reservations, tell them you must have the upstairs balcony. Did we say Italian food? Absolute! Start with the thick, homemade minestrone soup that only mama can make, with thick slabs of blissful bread which, with the Italian frescos on the wall, may make you yearn for the marvels of Italy. Study the menu. Pastas and Italian specialties, salads, their always-famous pizza. The linguine alla melanza — eggplant and mozzarella — is to die for. The gnocchi alla piemontese — potato dumplings in a light, perfect meat sauce — melts in your mouth. These are big portions, moderately priced and the service is first class. While having a glorious dining experience in your “private box” on that balcony, watch the Promenade artists below. While Anna is the owner par excellence, and runs this place with devotion, Tino Fragoso, part chef, all-around manager/overseer, keeps the moment-to-moment business running with a sixth sense. Put this place high on your list. Open seven days per week. 1444 Third Street Promenade (310) 576-7799 ••• When you have an undeniable urge to get out after dinner, head to Anastasia’s Asylum in Santa Monica, for desserts, coffees and easy listening live music. This little nook and cranny has been here 13 years. Anastasia’s is an upscale version of the coffee houses of the ’60s, owned by husband and wife Anastasia Israel and Kelly Gleason. Customers of all ages visit — college kids with their laptops studying, talking and eating, and others who just want to read or chat while they enjoy stimulating music. Dine on healthy fare, with salads, fish and chicken, have one of Anastasia’s big coffees or yummy desserts. Do try one of their special smoothies. Such a unique little place with different music all the time. The bands play in an upstairs alcove where you can sit, dine, relax, and has the feel of your living room. The staff is the nicest. Anastasia’s usually has a mix of jazz and folk. They also sell a variety of interesting flavors of syrups. Music every night from 8 or-9ish to 11 p.m. 1028 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 394-7113 ••• Like the blowing sands of North Africa, there is something seductive and mysterious about Koutoubia Restaurant, Innovative Moroccan Cuisine in West LA. When you enter these doors, leave the outside world behind. Let master chef and owner Michel Ohayon, a man with eminent class and cachet, help you experience something exotic, heady, striking, perfumed, slightly enigmatic.
Since 1978, this supreme restaurant and the only Moroccan place on the Westside, has been pleasing discriminating palates. Only the top restaurants, with the best service and food, have this kind of staying power. Plan a fascinating evening here as you let a dreamlike state take over your own reality for as long as possible. You will be seated on couches with lots of pillows or cushy stools surrounded by silk-lined walls. To start, we had Les Cigars a la Viande, tip loin of beef rolled in pastry with spices, served with hot sauce, which is made on the premises. Wow. These flavors burst in your mouth. They serve this amazing crusty but steamy bread. Then we split the couscous for two, with lamb, chicken and sausage over steamed vegetables. This was indescribably succulent, with stimulating scents and flavors and spiced beautifully. Dinner is topped off with luscious almond cookies, baklava that melts in your mouth, and a sweet, fine Jasmine tea with mint leaves with honey. If your party is four or more people, we suggest the celebration menu, well worth it at $30 per person, with many courses that go on and on. On Friday and Saturday evenings, from 7:30 p.m., you will be well entertained by an arresting belly dancer. We were mesmerized by this gorgeous creature as she swayed and shimmed to the rhythmic music in her stunning costume. It was as though we were truly transported to Morocco. This fashionable, upscale and most provocative place has an extensive liquor list and fine wine menu for every taste. What a spectacular evening. Prices for regular entrees are $20-$30 per person. Café Momo next door, has the same food, but a more casual atmosphere. Visit their Web site at www.koutoubiarestaurant.com. 2116 Westwood Blvd. (310) 475-0729 (E-mail your comments or suggestions to, and keep having fun.)
Originally published in the Santa Monica Daily Press print edition on April 9, 2004. Read the original PDF.