Fashion minded
By AMY KAUFMAN Special to the Daily Press
There are many things that turn Vincent Libretti on — freedom, diversity, and of course, fashion.
“If something makes me happy or feel good, I’ll say ‘it turns me on’ or ‘gets me off,’” said the recent “Project Runway” contestant of his infamous catchphrase on the hit reality TV show. “It’s just like saying ‘that’s cool.’”
Libretti doesn’t look like a fashion designer — at first. Dressed in a relaxed pair of dark trousers and V-neck sweater, he could be the average Santa Monica resident entering Starbucks for a morning caffeine fix. But when you look more closely, you start to see it — the square, thick framed glasses; the Nike sneakers with a gold swoosh; the chunky, silver bracelet adorning his wrist — small indicators all of Libretti’s affinity for the fashion world.
The designer was one of the final six contestants on the third season of Bravo’s “Runway,”designing into the 10th episode of a 12-episode season.Certainly quirky,but usually lovable,his designs ran the gamut,as Libretti churned out inspired-but-often-odd choices.
“Delusional” was the word finalist Laura Bennet often used to describe his garb.
Despite the disparagement from fellow “Runway” members, Libretti said the public has received him well. His MySpace webpage is evidence of such approval, where fans sprawl messages adoringly across the site.
“Vincent, you turn me on,” one fan wrote to Libretti via the page. “I’m glad you stated your opinion,” another added below, “you stuck to your guns.”
As a young boy growing up in New York, Libretti’s nights were spent secretly sneaking downstairs to use his aunt’s sewing machine. When he started dressing the girls he dated a few years later, Libretti realized that it was time to take his fashion interests out into the open. He attended not-for-credit courses at Parsons School of Design and embarked on an almost-famous stint in 1980s New York, opening his own small-budget design company whose garments were featured in the high-profile Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. On the side, Libretti hustled on the city streets as a sidewalk vendor, selling belts to make ends meet.
“People would tell me they liked one of my belts and I’d say, ‘Well, why don’t you go buy one of my gowns in Saks?’” Libretti laughed, recalling the public’s surprise to the contrasting locales.
Libretti first ventured to Santa Monica as a respite from the fashion jaunt 15 years ago and ended up moving to the city, where he got a job in advertising sales. It was only recently that the formerly retired designer decided to return to the world of fashion, cashing in a 401K for a dream.
It may have been a winding road to the runway, but Libretti said he’s a winner despite the outcome of “Project Runway.” Before speaking Friday night at Grant Street Elementary School, where his daughter attends second grade, Libretti sat down with the Santa Monica Daily Press to share some of his gripes about reality television, settle the controversy over some of his fiery remarks, and explain why he believes he’s one of the world’s next great fashion designers.
When did you realize you wanted to go into fashion professionally?
“My brother, Anthony, passed away at a young age. From that, things just came out of me and I started to design clothes. Funny enough, I think that the things I designed were more in his vein. He always liked dressy apparel and I was more funky -— street. To this day, I still make dressy clothes.”
What inspired you to audition for “Project Runway?”
“I’m not a reality TV person in any sense of the word. I was running out of money, and one of my friends suggested the show might be a great way to get exposure. So I plugged in a tape and I stood there with my 7-year-old daughter and I said, ‘Nina, what do you think?’ She laughed at me and she goes, ‘you’ve gotta be kidding me, Daddy, that’s not you.’ So I go, ‘I know, but should we give it a whirl?’ I think it was the last day of the interviews and there were two hours left and I look at my wife and I go, ‘Hey, Liz, could you put a portfolio together for me?’ I pressed three of my garments and went down there.”
Do you think they chose you for the show because of your designs?
“They said that, but I don’t know. I think that they also pick characters to make the audience react. It’s a reality TV show with ratings. I think they were looking for talent, but one never really knows.”
On the show, you were forced to make a couture gown in only a matter of hours. How realistic were the time constraints for the design challenges?
“You can’t do a couture dress in 20 hours. That’s a joke. As a designer, as long as you get a certain feeling across which the mood conveys, and the ambiance is there, the setting is there, and she [the model] walks out on the runway and looks hot... for 20 hours, done deal. People love that gown. I get people telling me that that gown looked like a glass of champagne.”
You caught a lot of slack on the reunion episode of “Project Runway” for calling the other designers “amateurs” in a recent Entertainment Weekly interview. What did you mean by that comment?
“In order to call yourself a designer, you have to study and immerse yourself in the history of fashion. You have to look at the great ones, and once you do that, if you can encompass that, you can put refinement into your clothing. Secondly, you have to have the ability to forecast trends. Not do something that we already see. Thirdly, you should never be shy about making clothes for real people because they buy your clothes.”
And you don’t think any of the other contestants on the show met those qualifications?
“I thought that the others on the show were lacking in some of those qualifications.”
You had a highly publicized tiff with the show’s fashion mentor, Tim Gunn. What happened between you two?
“Tim Gunn shocked me because he was getting really nasty on these blogspots... really cutting. I just thought that if the show wanted to portray this kind of condescending exploitation, so be it, but I voiced my opinion. Tim Gunn just talked the designers down. He was pretty rough. He attacked me personally. It’s confusing to me. Why would you do that? TV? Ratings? You’re supposed to be the dean of a school, an institution — is that how you talk to your students? ”
How do you feel about Jeffrey Sebelia winning “Project Runway” last week?
“Oh, that’s pretty good for him. I thought he was innovative and I liked some of the pieces in his collection. I’m sure he’s happy right now. It’s all good.”
Were you two close? “Jeffrey was pretty cool. We were close. I really liked Bradley [Baumkirchner] the best.”
Do you think you deserved to win “Project Runway?”
“I felt that in my own way, I won. Because Vincent Libretti was shown as a beautiful person who has integrity, who wants to help other people, whose work was outstanding. The refinement, the innovation. I wasn’t afraid to dress real people. I think I did great. I have my fair share of people who like my clothes and like who I am, so that’s a gift. It’s fine that I didn’t get to the end. It makes no difference to me at all. I would have loved to throw down a 12-piece collection to show the world what I do, but who’s to say I’m not going to throw down a collection? You’ve gotta be kiddin’ me. It’s right around the corner and I’m excited for that.”
If you had made it to the Olympus Fashion Week at Bryant Park in the final episode, what would your collection have been like?
“I would have blown the world away with freedom, emancipation, newness. Christian Dior once said that in order to be a designer, you have to be able to feel things in the air at this moment. It’s as simple as that. The September issue of Vogue had three dresses which looked very much like the ones I made on “Project Runway.” And they were Balenciaga,Chanel and Akris.We all feel things in the air. That’s the mark of a good designer.”
How do you stay so confident in the face of criticism?
“I’m 49 years old. I’ve been through life and I’m proud of who I am. I don’t need anyone to pat me on the shoulder because I know what I can do. I’m driven by one very important thing — I like to help people. I like to make people feel important. As long as I stay clean in my heart that way, I’m okay.”
How much do the producers skew the reality of what occurred on “Project Runway?”
“Enormous amounts... They type-cast people. For this one character, they want crazy, the other, angry. They’ll run that [characteristic] all the way through. For the sake of ratings, they’ll just play you that way. But Vincent was Vincent. I was about camaraderie and caring for other people. I didn’t knock others, it’s not my style. But they tried to make me look like a loose cannon. I believe that America is the judge, ultimately. And you can’t edit the clothes. My work speaks for itself.”
What didn’t you like about being on the show?
“Being in the same room where people would bicker or talk nasty. That’s the one thing that turned me off. The show likes controversy, they like throwing darts. People being ugly.There was an enormous amount of camaraderie on the show that was bypassed.”
If you had the chance, would you do the show again?
“There’s absolutely no need for me to do that again and step into a zone where people exploit people. It’s not Vincent’s style. My beautiful, pure 7-year-old child doesn’t like it either. They called [fellow contestant] Robert Best ‘boring.’ Was that necessary? I don’t think so. I think it’s horrific.”
So “Project Runway” wasn’t what you expected?
“It was more ‘Project Trashway.’ It was trashy and I’m not a big fan of that. But still, my experience was positive. Though what [the producers] chose to do was generally not my style, I’m happy. I loved it and it was a great opportunity for me. I’m thankful for the exposure it gave me.”
How has your life changed since the show aired?
“The response has been phenomenal. I’m getting incredible recognition on the street. I really like when people come up to me and the first thing they say to me is,‘I love your work, I love your clothing.’ And to me, as an artist, that’s the most important thing in the world.”
Tell me about the process of creating your designs. How do you start sketching?
“There’s an old saying, ‘When you try, you lose it all.’ When I sit down and sketch, I have to separate myself and just be as free as possible. It’s almost like you have a telephone in one hand talking to somebody and you’re just scribbling. I try to relax and enjoy and get childlike about it. True freedom is the best form of expression.”
How would you describe your designs to those unfamiliar with your line?
“My aesthetic comes from a strong sense of history. Christian Dior. Balenciaga. People that were so outstanding in a minimal way. In their work, you will see an expression of vitality. They could move mountains. I have that in me, plus a lot of youth. I try to make my designs as simplistic in nature as possible. I have a sense of joy that comes out in me for living and that joy translates into my clothing. It’s an expression of who Vincent is.”
Do you think one’s clothing is a reflection of their personality?
“I think that clothes should go on your back depending on your mood and how you’re feeling. I think that for women, if they’re on a limited budget, they should make sure they buy one expensive jacket or blazer every season. The rest they can fill in. It brings that person’s personality to the forefront. If that person walks into the room others say, ‘wow, he looks good,’ that’ll do it. A person should emphasize their own style.”
Do you follow fashion trends? “I don’t readily absorb trends. I absorb lifestyles.”
What do you need to break into the fashion world?
“Desire. Desire and passion will accomplish anything in this world. I don’t set my sights on how difficult things are, I just set my heart on doing it. If you’re moved, you’re gonna do it no matter what and nothing will stand in your way.”
Who are the fashion icons of today? “The fashion icons of today will become the fashion icons of yesteryear. The fashion icons of today will be the Tippi Hedren, Grace Kelly, Kim Novak types. It will be a slow evolution,but I can guarantee you: less skin,more grace, more beauty is definitely the path.”
Do you ever design clothing for your daughter, Nina?
“I do design things for her. She sketches unbelievably. She drapes already. She loves her daddy and she’s a phenomenal artist. A very free-spirited, beautiful child. She digs the show. What else pleases me is that if she liked someone else’s dress over mine, she said it. And I was like,‘That’s great, baby. I’m happy. Free to think the way you want.’ She’s sensational. So is my wife, who is also an artist and works at Mattel Toys in El Segundo. She didn’t like the way I was portrayed on the show, but we’re all over it now.”
Do you think Santa Monica residents are fashionable?
“Yeah, people are throwing down a really cool beat in Santa Monica. I like the people a lot. It’s kind of like a transient type of texture — people moving in and out, but there’s still a lot of heart here in this little town. I think it’s the right mix of artistic freedom. It’s not too set, and that’s what turns me on.”
What is your most and least favorite thing about Santa Monica?
“I love it here. It’s got an eclectic end and that’s what turns me on. It’s different and it gives me a good vibe. It’s by the ocean. It’s a great city because it has a bounce to it. Right now, it’s the place to be for me. I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. I’m not gonna talk about what I don’t like.”
What’s next for you? “I’m looking to raise money and financial backing right now. With that, I could create and run and jump and have fun and kill it. I’m going to explode my name into a fashion empire. I’m going to put my name on colognes, on shoes, on bags, on everything. Because when I ran my fashion company in New York, I learned you can’t do this without money. I want to do this the right way. We were not paid any money to be on the show.”
Where can people find out about your latest projects?
“They should visit www.vincentlibretti.com. I use MySpace and over 50,000 people write me. I can gauge who my audience is and the 18-35 year-old specter is really huge on me. I thank people all the time and they can message me any time of day and I respond to everyone. As a matter of fact, the head coach for Ohio State University football just asked me to make him an outfit. It’s good I know that I have a lot more to give because I feel like it’s nowhere near over. It’s just beginning for me.”
Originally published in the Santa Monica Daily Press print edition on October 23, 2006. Read the original PDF.