By MERV HECHT, the food and wine critic for the Santa Monica Daily Press, is a wine buyer and consultant to a number of national and international food and wine companies. He
SOMETIMES PEOPLE ASK ME “WHAT’S your favorite restaurant?” I usually reply that it depends on what I feel like eating. But if you ask me what restaurant in Santa Monica I go to the most, the answer is without a doubt Ocean Avenue Seafood.
Above all I appreciate the service. There is always enough staff to provide diners with whatever they need. And the staff is really well trained: They even know the names of the oysters and where they come from. And if you ask a question about the cuisine, they can describe it well.
Next, I love oysters, but I’m afraid to eat them in some restaurants. At OAS they are always fresh and delicious. The tuna tartar ($15) is also a step above most establishments that serve this very popular dish. Here the pieces of tuna are small discrete cubes, slices of avocado and a crisp wafer on the bottom, served with a light touch of sesame dressing. The fried calamari, which seems to be served just about everywhere now, is crisp on the outside, but not overcooked on the inside.
The “cioppino”might be the best in town, although at $28 it’s not the least expensive. The mix of fresh fish and shellfish makes for a fun, if slightly messy, meal. I never put on the lobster bib they offer, because I don’t like its chemical smell.
The star dish is the fresh lobster, which I prefer steamed. The pound and a half at $40 is as good as it gets. The “drawn butter” is not to my taste, so I always ask for some of the butter that comes with the excellent bread (warm) and add some of that into the stuff they serve as melted butter, whatever it is.
Little recognized is the fact that they have prime steaks, from filet mignon to ribeye to New York cuts, all priced around $40. These are real prime steaks, so they are worth the price.
For dessert I like the macadamia nut tort with an espresso. But of course, I’m not supposed to eat desserts.
On the back of the large, daily menu you’ll find one of the best wine lists in Southern California. That’s not only because there are at least 200 different wines to choose from (who has time to read all that?) but also because of the careful thought that went into the selection. Jerry handles the wines, and his philosophy is to offer a wide selection of unusual wines that go well with the dishes on the menu. There are about two dozen wines by the glass, a nice selection of half bottles, and the balance is classified according to food pairing suggestions. There is Chardonnay for finfish, rosé for tuna, pinot noir for salmon, and so forth. I can strongly recommend “le Grand cros” rosé by the glass, a wine made from a vineyard close to my home in France.
Finally, a very special and unusual treat: If you choose to sit in the raised corner section to the left as you enter, there is an aquarium. Inside are two very beautiful eels, that slowly glide around in the water. It’s better entertainment than you’ll see on the television screens dotted around the bar.
Originally published in the Santa Monica Daily Press print edition on May 29, 2008. Read the original PDF.