Jonathan Nossiter’s documentary about the politics of the modern wine industry has got, to put it in oenophilic terms, a subtle sweetness that is ultimately overpowered by excessive acidity. As for the finish, well, it takes entirely too long to get there. The primary focus of “Mondovino,” which Nossiter shot in several countries over a three-year period, is the relatively recent boom in wine con-sumerism and the effect it has had on a centuries-old industry firmly rooted in tradition. In short, it’s a glimpse at the battle between the wine world’s New School and Old School and the billions of dollars at stake.
Components of the latter group deride the encroachment of modernity in wine-making as “globalization” that puts profit above all else — they lay most of the blame for this unwelcome change at the feet of America’s vino titan, Robert Mondavi. The argument that multinational conglomerates are ruining the industry is made primarily by a handful of French and Italian owners of small, family-owned vineyards and is, to say the least, too finely distilled. Yes it’s true that Mondavi has played a large role in transforming the way wine is universally made and sold, but it’s hard to swallow the notion — vehemently espoused here by the likes of the venerable Hubert de Montville of Burgundy — that increased accessibility for middle-class consumers spells certain doom for wine snobs and niche producers.
At 135 minutes (trimmed down from 158 at its Cannes Film Festival premiere), “Mondovino” is as bloated and, at times, tedious as the typical food and wine critic. However, it’s not without its charms. Globetrotting wine consultant Michel Rolland is featured prominently and his wit and savoir-faire are a welcome departure from the incessant carping and sterility most of the other European characters bring to the table. There are some wonderful scenes of Old World splendor, particularly in the lush winemaking regions of Tuscany and the Napa Valley. The jaunty soundtrack is incongruous with the film’s slumbering aesthetic, yet you might find yourself tapping your toes all the way through … if you make it that far.
Originally published in the Santa Monica Daily Press print edition on March 25, 2005. Read the original PDF.