LOCANDA PORTOFINO IS A SMALL neighborhood restaurant that offers some of the best, most authentic Italian food in town. It also has a selection of wine, if you can afford the prices, some of which are difficult to find except in the very top Italian restaurants. The pasta here is as good as the best, well, almost the best, in Italy.
WHERE: 1110 Montana Ave., on the south east corner of Montana and 11th Street. (310) 394-9828.
WHEN: Lunch, Monday — Saturday, noon — 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, 5:30 p.m. to 10 (10:30 Friday and Saturday). Closed Mondays.
BEST DISHES: For me the pasta shines here. A few times the chef made spaghetti Carbonara (the traditional pasta of Rome) for me although not on the menu. There are plenty of meat and fish dishes from which to choose on the menu. Antipasti prices range from $10 to $22. Pasta runs from $16 to $20, and main courses are between $25 and $35.
BEST FEATURE: The food and the wine selection.
WORST FEATURE: The owners sometimes display a touch of arrogance, not atypical in Italy, but not well received in Santa Monica. Once they told me the corkage fee was $40. So I said “OK, but I’ll take it off the tip.” And I did. The next time I was there they said the corkage fee had been reduced to $25.
WHAT TO DRINK: This is a chance to try some hard to find Barolo’s and Barbaresco’s from top vintage years, properly stored.
BOTTOM LINE: This is a small, unpretentious neighborhood restaurant with great food and usually good, professional service. It’s not crowded at lunch, and you can park the car yourself.
Originally published in the Santa Monica Daily Press print edition on August 23, 2008. Read the original PDF.