By DAN DUNN BY VIC PLATINUM
After an exhaustive three-year search that brought me to the four corners of the world (Manhattan, North Jersey, Staten Island and Queens), The Imbiber is proud to announce the selection of this space’s “Official Sommelier,” who will henceforth be our go-to-guy on all matters vino. Before we bring out the star of the show, however, allow me to explain why it took so long to arrive at this momentous decision. Truth be told, several months passed before I even figured out what it is a sommelier does (they develop and maintain wine lists for fancy restaurants and hotels), and then I spent a couple more just mastering the pronunciation of the word (it’s like the country, Somalia, only happier — “Suh-moll- YAY!”). Also, quite often I was very, very drunk.
So now, without further adieu, please put your hands together for The Imbiber’s new “Official Sommelier,” the one, the only, the soon-to-be regretful that he ever agreed to do this … André Compeyre. André is the chief sommelier at Alain Ducasse at the Essex House in New York City, where he’s responsible for pairing wines with the world-class culinary creations of executive chef Tony Esnault. For those unfamiliar with Alain Ducasse (pronounced “Cha-Ching!”) it’s arguably the most exquisite restaurant in all of the United States. In his nearly 20 years in the business, André has worked at world-renowned restaurants such as “Les Jardins de l’Opera” in Toulouse, “Le Gavroche” in London, and “Le Chateau d’Eza” near Monaco. He also oversaw the wine program at Restaurant Thomas Henkelmann in Greenwich, Conn.
“I am honored that out of the several thousand great sommeliers in this country, you asked me to participate, without even holding a drinking competition or asking me to pick a good merlot for Sugar Ray Leonard,” said the affable Frenchman with the golden palate, referring to a recent Imbiber column featuring the boxing great. Appreciate the effort, André, but no need to suck up — you already got the gig. Look for “Andre’s Pick” to appear here once or month or so, and whatever you do, wine lovers, listen to what the man says. (Thirsty for more Imbiber? Pull up a barstool at www.TheImbiber.com) ANDRE’S PICK: “I would like to recommend a crisp white wine for summertime: 2004 Sigalas Assyrtiko from Santorini in Greece. It is a clean, fresh, mineral wine to enjoy as an aperitif or with a seafood appetizer such as chilled steamed langoustines with almond milk, cucumber and celery, which we serve at Alain Ducasse. The cost is approximately $15 retail. Sigalas is a boutique producer, and you may equally enjoy Assyrtiko or Assyrtiko blends from any producer in the same appellation.”
Originally published in the Santa Monica Daily Press print edition on August 5, 2005. Read the original PDF.